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Destination: Christmas in Provence

Destination: Christmas in Provence Photo credit: Shutterstock
November 11 2022
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Text written by Emeline @aixpat_patrouille

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For centuries, Christmas in Provençal France has been the highlight of the year. The festivities begin on December 4 at the Holy Beard and end at the Chandeleur on February 2. Spend a Christmas in Provence, it is the occasion to touch the authenticity of the Provençal terroir and its ancestral rituals.

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The tradition starts on the 4th of december

The tradition begins on December 4. Saint Beard lived in the 3rd century. Patron saint of miners and artificers, her memory is celebrated every 4th of December, a day when a few saucers are planted on a layer of fresh moss, wheat grains and lentils. Until Christmas, the seeds grow to form beautiful green thumbs, the first fruits of the expected harvest. On Christmas Eve, when the beans have germinated, they say the year will be good. The most beautiful saucer is reserved for the Christmas table, the others for the decoration of the crib.

In the first days of December, it is the ideal time to "make the crib" always with the family for the happiness of all. The decor is a reconstruction of Provençal life with its vital points such as the well and water of the mill, the communal oven, the pines and of course the stable with the child Jesus, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, the donkey and the ox and the three Magi. To prepare the crib, we use santons (from the Provençal "Santoun": small saint) made of clay, handmade. There are all kinds of them, especially by professions (from fisherman to shepherd to doctor or master baker).

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Christmas Eve

On Christmas Eve, towns and villages are enlivened by living cribs and pastorals. We share as a family the "big supper", a meager but nevertheless hearty meal of 24 December which ends with thirteen desserts. The big supper (Big soupa in Provençal) consists of a lean meal. The table is then decorated with holly with red balls and saucers of the wheat of the Holy Beard.

There is always a cover for "the poor" destined for the soul of the dead family, who was invited to the feast. Seven thin dishes are served to memorize "the seven wounds of Christ". On Christmas Eve demanding fasting and abstinence from meat, the meal is lean but hearty. The abundance of Christmas dishes contrasts with everyday life, but they remain simple in their preparation.

The tradition of the thirteen desserts symbolizes Christ and his twelve apostles. There are 4 beggars, representing different Catholic religious orders (raisins, almonds, nuts and hazelnuts, dried figs). Complete with quince paste and jam, oil pump, candied fruit, black nougat and white nougat of Provence, apples and pears, plums, oranges (symbol of wealth at the time), mandarins and clementines, Christmas melon, white grapes, Sweets: chocolate truffles or papillotes, bugnes, milk cake, almond cake and dates. Each picks a little bit of each dessert while enjoying a cooked wine.

It’s good luck! all year long...!

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Photo credit: Adobe stock
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The festivities continues

After the meal, the tradition is to attend the Midnight Mass. Going back to the 5th
Midnight Mass is now practiced around the world. This is the occasion
to listen to and participate in many songs and music in Provencal language, translating

traditional religious fervour in Provence. The epiphany, at the beginning of January, is the time of the Magi who sign the appearance in our plates of the delicious galette of kings, brioche in the shape of a crown garnished with candied fruit, symbols of the jewels of the Magi kings. On February 2nd, the Christmas traditions are gently closed. The delicate moment to dismantle the crib...but also to taste tasty crepes. You can find the recipe for Chandeleur pancakes at the bottom of this article!

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I hope that this trip in the Provençal traditions at Christmas will have pleased you and made you want to discover southern France during the holidays!

If you want to find plenty of family activities, click onfaventure to register in the community and get lots of activity suggestions, promo codes and participate in super interesting contests.

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Emeline

@aixpat_patrouille

Emeline

Hello! I am Emeline, 35 years old, mother of two little wolves of 6 years and 4 months. French by birth but Quebecer by heart, I explore with pleasure our Belle Province with my family.

In love with travel and discoveries, Lego and the Harry Potter universe, I share with you all our releases through our blog and Instagram account:

Blog : https://aixpatpatrouille.wordpress.com/

Instagram :@aixpat_patrouille

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